Today, it is a pleasure to welcome my friend Maxine Sommer back to History…the Interesting Bits. This summer, Maxine led a tour group of History fans through France in search of the Plantagenets, stopping at some iconic landmarks associated with Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and the rest of the most famous – and at times, infamous – medieval royal family.
Over to Maxine….
In the Footsteps of Royalty: Exploring the Plantagenets on Our First Historic Adventure
“Journeying Through Medieval Masterpieces and Iconic Landmarks”
Château Gaillard: A Castle of Triumph and Tragedy
From day one, we dove into history headfirst with a visit to the imposing ruins of Château Gaillard. Though often hailed as Richard the Lionheart’s crowning achievement, this fortress holds layers of much more history than that. In 1314, it became the prison of two daughters-in-law of King Philip IV, key figures in the infamous Tour de Nesle Affair, a scandal that rocked the French court. A couple of decades later, the castle played host to Scotland’s child king, David II, and his bride, offering a royal respite before his return to reclaim his kingdom.
With the help of our brilliant guide Ange, we traced the rise and fall of Chateau Gaillard, from its hasty construction under Richard I to its swift capture by King Philip Augustus of France after John’s ill-fated reign. Standing among the weathered stone walls, it was easy to imagine its days of glory and power, but also to understand how quickly a once-unstoppable fortress could be toppled under weaker leadership. Chateau Gaillard’s story is not just one of medieval might but also a reminder of the delicate balance of power that shaped the Plantagenet era.
The Magnificent Bayeux Tapestry: A Stitch in Time
Though the Bayeux Tapestry predates the Plantagenets by nearly a century, it remains an essential highlight for anyone captivated by the medieval period. No amount of reading can prepare you for the sheer grandeur of this stunning masterpiece, meticulously crafted by hand to narrate the dramatic lead-up to the Norman invasion of England. The vibrant details leap to life, showcasing a vivid display that is nothing short of extraordinary.
One moment that particularly struck me was a scene depicting King Harold’s hasty departure for Normandy—his men, so rushed, they left without their shoes, splashing barefoot through the water as they headed to their ships. It’s these small yet poignant details that bring the narrative to life, showcasing the dedication of the women who painstakingly wove this epic tale.
Beyond the tapestry itself, the adjoining museum is a treasure trove of information, shedding light not just on this remarkable artifact but also on the broader historical context of the era. Visiting the Bayeux Tapestry is an unforgettable experience that will truly immerse you in the rich history of Normandy.
Mont Saint-Michel: A Dreamlike Retreat
This tidal island certainly lives up to its UNESCO World Heritage status, sadly though, as with most sites like this, the allure of their fame can bring overwhelming crowds, making it challenging to fully appreciate their beauty. To create an unforgettable experience for my group, I arranged for us to stay overnight on the island—a decision that transformed our visit into something truly magical. As the day’s tourists departed, we found ourselves wandering the winding paths of Mont Saint-Michel in peaceful solitude. The island’s enchanting atmosphere became even more pronounced as twilight descended, allowing us to immerse ourselves in its rich history without the jostle of crowds.
The journey across the causeway to Mont Saint-Michel feels like a step back in time, as the abbey loomed larger, the closer we got to the gate. Approaching the island in this way adds to the otherworldly feeling, transporting you to a different realm entirely.
One of my guests, Dianne, perfectly captured the essence of our experience in her review: “The highlight for me was staying overnight on the island of Mont Saint-Michel. I will never forget watching the sun come up and the light making the abbey glow.” Her words echo the indescribable wonder we all felt, creating memories that will last a lifetime.
Fontevraud Abbey: Where History, Serenity, and Culinary Splendour Meet
For anyone captivated by the Plantagenets, a visit to Fontevraud Abbey—final resting place of the indomitable Eleanor of Aquitaine—is often a dream come true. Several of my group members had long wished to stand before her effigy, so it was clear that this site would be a highlight of our tour. Yet, what awaited us at Fontevraud far exceeded expectations.
Our stay at Fontevraud l’Hôtel, situated within the abbey grounds, offered the unique luxury of exploring the abbey well into the night, with its tranquil beauty only deepening as the moonlight bathed its ancient stones. But what truly made this visit unforgettable was the dining experience. I selected the abbey’s famed “lunar menu,” a modern interpretation of the simple yet refined meals once enjoyed by the monks and nuns who lived here centuries ago. What followed was a culinary journey that transcended time—an extraordinary feast of countless, artfully prepared courses that delighted the senses.
To top it all off, we were treated to a special visit from “Queen Eleanor” herself, brought to life by our talented group member Donna in costume, creating an enchanting atmosphere that perfectly rounded out our unforgettable night at the Abbey.
Guédelon: A Medieval Masterpiece in the Making
Though its connection to the Plantagenets lies only in the era, Guédelon captivated us with its sheer ambition and authenticity. This extraordinary project, set within an unused quarry, is an ongoing attempt to build a 13th-century castle using only the materials and techniques of the medieval period. It was like stepping back in time—without the school excursion chaos! We had the chance to speak with the craftsmen, each dedicated to recreating history one stone at a time. It’s mind-boggling to witness the painstaking effort that goes into building each section of the castle by hand, giving us a new appreciation for the scale of historical construction.
As we walked through Guédelon, I couldn’t help but reflect on Château Gaillard, which we visited earlier in the tour—a fortress that Richard the Lionheart had built in just two years. While Richard’s team had far more manpower in 1196, the ongoing construction of Guédelon, which began in 1997, has taken 27 years and is still far from complete.
Adding to the authenticity, the village that houses the volunteers lives strictly by 13th-century standards. They grow their own food, dress in period-appropriate clothing, and cook using medieval techniques. It’s a living glimpse into the past and an absolute must-visit for history enthusiasts.
“Unraveling the Tales of an Intriguing Plantagenet Legacy”
Richard I, the Lionheart
A Plantagenet-themed tour through France wouldn’t be complete without constant references to the Angevins. Unsurprisingly, Richard the Lionheart was a recurring figure throughout our journey, from the stunning ruins of Château Gaillard—Richard’s pride and joy—to his embalmed heart at Rouen Cathedral, and finally to Château Châlus-Chabrol, where he met his end after receiving a fatal crossbow wound. Along the way, there were lively debates about his merits as a king and husband, discussions that seemed to spill over into several coach rides and castle visits!
But the most amusing conversation of all came after our visit to Château Châlus-Chabrol. According to local legend, Richard’s entrails were buried in the chapel of the castle where he died, the very castle he had been besieging when he was fatally wounded. As we travelled on, our group began to ponder this curious story—if Richard was the enemy, how likely was it that the castle’s defenders would have invited him into their chapel to die comfortably by the fire? Surely, the reality was less cozy than that! This debate sparked plenty of laughs and camaraderie, as we cheerfully unraveled the mystery of Richard’s final days. It was moments like this that truly made the tour so memorable, blending history with humour and shared insights.
Henry II
On the evening of Day 4, just outside Poitiers, I arranged a lively group discussion before dinner, with the spotlight on none other than Henry II. The topic was particularly fitting after our earlier visit to the impressive Chinon Castle, a stronghold that played a key role in his reign. Over a glass or two of wine, our conversation quickly sparked debates about the enigmatic first Plantagenet king.
For many, Henry II is synonymous with the infamous murder of Thomas Becket in December 1170—a crime that shocked Europe, with Becket killed on the very floor of Canterbury Cathedral. Henry’s tumultuous relationships with his sons, often called the ‘Devil’s Brood,’ and the long imprisonment of his formidable wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, have painted a rather dark image of him in the pages of history. And yet, I have a dear friend who defends Henry passionately, believing history has judged him too harshly. This made me eager to hear the views of my group.
I was not disappointed. What followed was a fascinating and animated discussion about Henry’s complexity, revealing both his flaws and strengths. Like many moments on our journey, everyone felt welcome to share their opinions, creating a warm and open exchange that deepened our collective understanding of this remarkable, yet often misunderstood, king.
The Hundred Years’ War
Beyond the Angevins, one of the most pivotal topics of our journey through France was the prolonged struggle for the French crown between the Plantagenet kings of England and the Valois kings of France, famously known as The Hundred Years’ War. This conflict defined a significant part of Plantagenet history in France, so I was especially excited to organize another pre-dinner group discussion on Day 8.
I am sure most of the group had read accounts of this struggle from an English perspective, however I was curious to explore its impact on the French people. Now, what better way to do that, than by hearing the insights of our
exceptional guide, Ange, a native Frenchman, who provided a fresh and compelling view of the war from the French side. His perspective gave us a different and not unbalanced understanding of this conflict.
It’s not often us history ‘nerds’ can engage in such thoughtful debates over a glass of wine, and this particular evening felt like another one of those perfect moments of camaraderie and learning that made our journey so incredible.
Eleanor of Aquitaine
No 10-night Plantagenet-themed tour through France would be complete without a deep dive into the life of the most remarkable queen of them all, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Our journey took us to some of the most significant places in her life, from the serene beauty of Fontevraud Abbey, where we had the privilege of visiting her effigy and reflecting on her final days, to the lively city of Poitiers, where she held court with unmatched influence for so many years.
We also ventured to Bordeaux, a region now synonymous with world-class wine, a commodity that owes much of its early prominence to Eleanor’s marriage to Henry, Duke of Normandy—later Henry II of England. Despite the challenges and turbulence of their union, the marriage of these two dynamic figures laid the foundation for a dynasty that ruled for 331 years.
Our discussions about Eleanor were as vibrant as her extraordinary life. From her imprisonment at the hands of her own husband to her daring voyages to the Holy Land—one of which took place when she was nearly 70 years old—we marveled at her resilience and power. And finally, we reflected on the peace she found at Fontevraud, where she spent her final days in quiet reflection at the abbey she so loved.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into our amazing journey. For more stories and discoveries from my first tour, visit my blog and uncover all the memorable experiences we shared beyond just mere history: plantagenetdiscoveries.com.
We’re gearing up for the next adventure in July, and you won’t want to miss it! Mention this article when you reach out http://www.plantagenetdiscoveries.com/contact for an exclusive discount—I’d love to welcome you on board for our next historical journey.
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My Books:
Signed, dedicated copies of all my books are available through my online store.
OUT NOW! Heroines of the Tudor World
Heroines of the Tudor World tells the stories of the most remarkable women from European history in the time of the Tudor dynasty, 1485-1603. These are the women who ruled, the women who founded dynasties, the women who fought for religious freedom, their families and love. These are the women who made a difference, who influenced countries, kings and the Reformation. In the era dominated by the Renaissance and Reformation, Heroines of the Tudor World examines the threats and challenges faced by the women of the era, and how they overcame them. From writers to regents, from nuns to queens, Heroines of the Tudor World shines the spotlight on the women helped to shape Early Modern Europe.
Heroines of the Tudor World is now available for pre-order from Amberley Publishing and Amazon UK.
Coming 30 January 2025: Scotland’s Medieval Queens
Scotland’s history is dramatic, violent and bloody. Being England’s northern neighbour has never been easy. Scotland’s queens have had to deal with war, murder, imprisonment, political rivalries and open betrayal. They have loved and lost, raised kings and queens, ruled and died for Scotland. From St Margaret, who became one of the patron saints of Scotland, to Elizabeth de Burgh and the dramatic story of the Scottish Wars of Independence, to the love story and tragedy of Joan Beaufort, to Margaret of Denmark and the dawn of the Renaissance, Scotland’s Medieval Queens have seen it all. This is the story of Scotland through their eyes.
Available for pre-order now.
Also by Sharon Bennett Connolly:
Women of the Anarchy demonstrates how Empress Matilda and Matilda of Boulogne, unable to wield a sword themselves, were prime movers in this time of conflict and lawlessness. It shows how their strengths, weaknesses, and personal ambitions swung the fortunes of war one way – and then the other. Available from Bookshop.org, Amberley Publishing and Amazon UK. King John’s Right-Hand Lady: The Story of Nicholaa de la Haye is the story of a truly remarkable lady, the hereditary constable of Lincoln Castle and the first woman in England to be appointed sheriff in her own right. Available from all good bookshops Pen & Sword Books, bookshop.org and Amazon. Defenders of the Norman Crown: The Rise and Fall of the Warenne Earls of Surrey tells the fascinating story of the Warenne dynasty, from its origins in Normandy, through the Conquest, Magna Carta, the wars and marriages that led to its ultimate demise in the reign of Edward III. Available from Pen & Sword Books, Amazon in the UK and US, and Bookshop.org.
Ladies of Magna Carta: Women of Influence in Thirteenth Century England looks into the relationships of the various noble families of the 13th century, and how they were affected by the Barons’ Wars, Magna Carta and its aftermath; the bonds that were formed and those that were broken. It is now available in paperback and hardback from Pen & Sword, Amazon, and Bookshop.org. Heroines of the Medieval World tells the stories of some of the most remarkable women from Medieval history, from Eleanor of Aquitaine to Julian of Norwich. Available now from Amberley Publishing and Amazon, and Bookshop.org. Silk and the Sword: The Women of the Norman Conquest traces the fortunes of the women who had a significant role to play in the momentous events of 1066. Available now from Amazon, Amberley Publishing, and Bookshop.org.
Alternate Endings: An anthology of historical fiction short stories including Long Live the King… which is my take what might have happened had King John not died in October 1216. Available in paperback and kindle from Amazon.
Podcast:
Have a listen to the A Slice of Medieval podcast, which I co-host with Historical fiction novelist Derek Birks. Derek and I welcome guests, such as Bernard Cornwell, and discuss a wide range of topics in medieval history, from significant events to the personalities involved.
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Don’t forget! Signed and dedicated copies of all my books are available through my online store.
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©2024 Sharon Bennett Connolly FRHistS and Maxine Sommer
History... the interesting bits! 